Tránh phân khúc mỹ phẩm công nghiệp đang chịu cạnh tranh gay gắt, một số doanh nghiệp (DN) mỹ phẩm Việt Nam đã chọn hướng đi riêng theo xu hướng mỹ phẩm thiên nhiên. Dù nhiều tiềm năng, nhưng con đường của các DN này vẫn gặp không ít khó khăn.
Báo cáo về thị trường mỹ phẩm Việt Nam do Công ty Kantar Worldpanel công bố cho thấy, 80% số người tiêu dùng thành thị mua ít nhất một sản phẩm chăm sóc sắc đẹp trong một năm, 1/4 chi tiêu cho ngành hàng chăm sóc cá nhân được dành cho sản phẩm làm đẹp. Đặc biệt, nhu cầu về mỹ phẩm thiên nhiên đang có xu hướng tăng.
Đó là lý do nhiều hãng mỹ phẩm lớn ở nước ngoài đã sớm kinh doanh phân khúc này với kết quả khá tốt, như Oriflame (Thụy Điển) mức tăng trưởng bình quân luôn đạt 18%, thương hiệu Purité By Prôvence (Pháp) với các loại tinh dầu chiết xuất từ hoa, cây cỏ tăng doanh số ổn định. Dù không công bố doanh thu nhưng việc có mặt ở hầu hết các trung tâm thương mại cho thấy mỹ phẩm LOccitane (Pháp) đang ăn nên làm ra.
Các tập đoàn đa quốc gia đang có nhà máy tại Việt Nam như Unilever, Kao, P&G cũng nhanh chóng tận dụng nguồn nguyên liệu thiên nhiên Việt Nam như bồ kết, chè xanh, dưa leo, nghệ, tảo biển, lô hội, mật ong, nhân sâm, hà thủ ô, chanh, vỏ bưởi… để làm ra các sản phẩm mới.
Dù các thương hiệu nước ngoài đang có khuynh hướng lấn át phân khúc mỹ phẩm thiên nhiên, nhưng nhiều DN mỹ phẩm Việt Nam vẫn có nhiều ưu thế khi chọn sản xuất dòng mỹ phẩm này và bước đầu đạt doanh thu không kém DN ngoại.
Mạnh dạn đầu tư nhà máy sản xuất kem trị nám, kem rửa mặt, kem dưỡng da chiết xuất tinh chất từ mủ trôm, đạt tiêu chuẩn GMP với dây chuyền hiện đại nhập khẩu từ Nhật Bản, công suất 43 triệu sản phẩm/năm, bà Võ Thị Liễu – Giám đốc Công ty TNHH Công nghệ Vĩnh Tân cho biết, trung bình những tháng đầu tiên ra mắt, Công ty đã bán được 300 triệu đồng và hiện nay mức tăng trưởng doanh thu trên 20%. Sắp tới, Công ty tiếp tục mở rộng hệ thống phân phối và cho ra những sản phẩm mới.
Ông Đoàn Văn Khanh – Giám đốc DNTN Long Thuận cũng chia sẻ: “Chưa kể các kênh bán hàng, chỉ tính riêng dòng tinh dầu hoa bưởi bán ở kênh online đã đạt trên một tỷ đồng/tháng, giá trị xuất khẩu tăng 30%”. Theo bà Christine Nguyệt – Giám đốc Công ty Mỹ phẩm Skina: “Sản phẩm của Skina có nhiều triển vọng tăng trưởng, bình quân doanh thu tháng sau hơn tháng trước 10%, có tháng tăng 30 – 40%”. Tương tự, Công ty Dầu dừa Mekong Coconut đã sản xuất tinh chất dầu dừa để chăm sóc tóc, da…
Theo ông Huỳnh Kỳ Trân – Tổng giám đốc Thorakao, một trong những điểm yếu của DN mỹ phẩm Việt Nam là công nghệ sản xuất phải nhập khẩu, thuế suất cao. Đặc biệt, nhiều DN đi theo hướng mỹ phẩm thiên nhiên, nhất là dòng Organic vẫn còn nhiều cái khó. Theo bà Nguyệt, cái khó nhất là người dùng vẫn chưa hiểu hết sự khác biệt giữa mỹ phẩm organic với mỹ phẩm thiên nhiên. Hiện Skina mới chỉ đủ nguyên liệu để sản xuất nhỏ, nếu phát triển, Công ty sẽ gặp khó vì chưa có vùng nguyên liệu Organic, mà nhập khẩu thì giá quá cao.
Ông Phạm Minh Thiện – Giám đốc Công ty TNHH Cỏ May từng áp ủ chương trình chế biến một số sản phẩm cao cấp như tinh dầu cám gạo, tinh dầu hoa sen, tuy nhiên, ông cho biết: “Chưa thực hiện được nguyện vọng ấy vì muốn có sản phẩm Organic thì phải có nguồn cám gạo Organic nhưng hiện nay, nguồn cám gạo này vô cùng hiếm và khó kiểm soát”. Cùng với ý kiến trên, ông Đoàn Văn Khanh cũng chia sẻ: “Nguyên liệu là nan giải nhất. Mới đây, Long Thuận có đơn hàng hai container tinh dầu bưởi từ nước ngoài nhưng không đủ nguyên liệu để làm. Hiện cây bưởi vẫn được trồng phân tán trong tự nhiên nên thời tiết tác động lên năng suất, chất lượng lại không ổn định”.
Bà Hương nói: “Hiện nay giống dược liệu được bán với giá rất cao, chất lượng không ổn định. Nguồn cung không có tính cạnh tranh, nhiều vùng trồng dược liệu không tuân thủ bất cứ tiêu chuẩn nào, chỉ chạy theo năng suất và giảm giá thành dẫn đến chất lượng dược liệu tốt xấu lẫn lộn. Một số địa phương không có quy hoạch phát triển dược liệu nên khi DN nuôi trồng dược liệu thì bị chính quyền gây khó dễ.
Quy định chứng nhận vùng nuôi trồng dược liệu theo tiêu chuẩn GACP cũng đang có nhiều bất cập, như quy trình canh tác, nuôi trồng dược liệu do Viện Dược liệu thẩm định làm cho DN mất thời gian và chi phí nhưng lại không sát thực tế địa phương. Cục Quản lý y dược cổ truyền là đơn vị đánh giá và cấp giấy tiếp nhận, công bố vùng trồng nguyên liệu đạt GACP nhưng không phải là tổ chức chứng nhận độc lập nên giấy chứng nhận không có giá trị khi giao thương với DN nước ngoài.
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